On the north side of the Arno river is the Oltrarno Quarter. Translated, Oltrarno means the other side of the river. Easily reached by the famous medieval bridge the Ponte Vecchio, it is but a short walking distance to the Palazzo Pitti. There are some impressive churches to visit, as well as restaurants and enoteche (wine stores). I love walking around the Oltrarno. Venture away from these tourist attractions, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. It feels less busy than in central Florence.
Ponte Vecchio
A good place to cross the river Arno to reach the Oltrarno is at the Ponte Vecchio. The medieval bridge is famous for the jewellery stores that align it. The bridge is also a fantastic place to take photos of Renaissance architecture and the river.
You may find yourself jostling for space. It is in the centre of the bridge where you will find everyone taking pictures.
During World War Two this beautiful bridge was set to be blown up by the Nazis but was rewarded a lifeline. It is the last of the medieval bridges to survive.
From here it is well signposted to attractions such as the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens.
Basilica of Santo Spirito
The Basilica of Santo Spirito (Basilica of the Holy Spirit) is located in the square of the same name, Piazza Santo Spirito.
The basilica is one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture. It is one of my favourite churches in Florence. The piazza is abuzz with restaurants and cafes. The piazza is a great place to people watch and admire the basilica.
Filippo Brunelleschi built the church in 1428 on top of an earlier church badly damaged during the political upheaval of the 14th century.
The façade of Santo Spirito was left unintentionally blank. Brunelleschi’s plans never came to fruition.
Cappella Brancacci
The Brancacci Chapel (Cappella dei Brancacci) is located in the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine. The chapel is famous for a painting cycle that has been dubbed the Sistine Chapel of the early Renaissance.
The chapel is named after Felice Brancacci who commissioned it. The paintings in the chapel date from 1425-1427. Significantly the painting cycle breaks away from a medieval perspective. Instead, they opt for more innovative use of space in the frescoes. This was a new technique becoming popular during the Renaissance. Many of the paintings retain the tone of International Gothic.
The chapel is impressive. Visiting the chapel is by timed entry. Entrance to the chapel is by the adjacent Brunelleschi designed convent.
The chapel is separate to the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine. Keep note of the visiting times to visit the church and chapel. They have different opening times.
Palazzo Pitti
The Palazzo Pitti (Pitti Palace) is a Renaissance palace. It was once home to the powerful Medici family. Initially, the palace belonged to an ambitious Florentine banker, Luca Pitti.
The palace became the chief residence of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany (ruling families). Consequently, over the years it expanded into a treasure house filled with art, silver-plate, jewellery and luxurious furniture. What we see today is a museum complex, the largest in Florence.
Don’t miss the Palatine Gallery (Galleria Palatina) with its collection of over 500 Renaissance paintings, including works by Raphael, Titian and Rubens. In total, twenty-eight rooms make up the gallery. Other recommended areas to visit in the museum include the Royal Apartments, Gallery of Modern Art, the Treasury and Costume Gallery.
Beyond the Palazzo Pitti are the Boboli Gardens, accessible by the terrace. Read more about the gardens in part two of this post.
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