The Oltrarno Quarter, Florence (Part 2)

On the north side of the Arno River is the Oltrarno Quarter. Translated, ‘Oltrarno’ means the ‘other side of the river’. Crossing the Ponte Vecchio bridge is but a short walk to the Boboli Gardens and Fort Belvedere. For commanding views of Florence, head to the Piazzale Michelangelo and the medieval church, San Miniato al Monte.

Boboli Gardens

Directly behind the Palazzo Pitti is the Boboli Gardens (Giardino di Boboli). The gardens were once the private gardens of the Medici. They are an example of the archetypal 16th-century formal Italian garden. They were opened to the public in 1766.

Walking around the gardens is a joy. The gardens are behind the Palazzo Pitti. From the palace, the park rises on Boboli Hill from a deep amphitheatre. At its centre is an Egyptian obelisk. Leaving the amphitheatre, you enter an ample public garden space. Secret paths take the visitor to private areas decorated with grottos and statues.

In the hillside above the amphitheatre is a double ramp that leads up to the Fountain of Neptune. Beyond here is the Viotollone, a broad avenue flanked by cypress trees and statuettes. The avenue leads to the Isolotto, a tiny oval-shaped tree-enclosed island. At the centre of the islands is the Fountain of the Ocean. The moat that surrounds the island has statues of Andromeda and Perseus.

It is possible to leave the Boboli Gardens by the Via del Forte di San Giorgio. But before leaving the gardens, don’t miss the lovely 18th-century café, the Kaffeehaus.

The café terrace has sensational panoramic views of the city. From the Via del Forte di San Giorgio, you can return to the Ponte Vecchio along the river. You can continue onto Piazzale Michelangelo via the Fort Belvedere and the Giardino delle Rose (Rose Gardens).

Fort Belvedere

The Fort Belvedere (Forte di Belvedere) is a massive fortification on the highest hill of the Boboli Gardens. The fortress was built in 1590 to demonstrate the wealth of Florence. The fort overlooked the entire city and surrounding areas. It also protected the Florentine government and the Medici family and their Pitti Palace.

Today, the fort is a testimony to Renaissance architecture and military activity. The Belvedere is home to major exhibitions and cultural events. Above all, the view from the fort is spectacular.

Piazzale Michelangelo

The Piazzale Michelangelo is another fantastic viewpoint to get a panoramic view of Florence. The piazza was designed in 1869 by Giuseppe Poggi, created when Florence was the capital of Italy. Consequently, the whole city was involved in urban renewal.

Dedicated to the Renaissance sculptor, Michelangelo, the statue at the centre of the piazza is a bronze copy of his David statue. The sculpture was a copy and was not designed for the piazza. It took nine pairs of oxen to bring it up the windy road in 1873.

The view from the piazza is spectacular. It is possible to see the Church of Santa Croce, the Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery, and the Bargello Museum. On a hill behind the Piazzale Michelangelo is the medieval church, San Miniato al Monte.

San Miniato al Monte

Nestled in the foothills of Mount Fiorentinus behind the Piazzale Michelangelo is the medieval (eleventh-century) Basilica of San Miniato al Monte.

The façade of San Miniato al Monte is, I think, the best example of Florentine Romanesque architecture.

The approach to the basilica entails two flights of stairs. The basilica’s design is divided into three equal spaces with two parts aisle and one-part nave. Beyond the nave is a raised choir. The choir is above the enormous hall crypt.

On the right side of the church is the Monastery of Monte Oliveto. Here, monks make liqueurs, honey, and herbal teas. There is a shop next to the church.

To read more about this fantastic church, why not read my post on visiting the church, the Basilica on a hill above Florence?

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